full transcript
From the Ted Talk by Nick Pizzo: The physics of surfing
Unscramble the Blue Letters
And what exactly are you wtiiang for? The perfect wave, of course. Like other waves in physics, ocean waves represent a transfer of energy. Wind blowing across the oeacn accelerates water particles near the surface, laendig to the growth of ripples that become waves. These deviations from the flat surface are acted upon by gravity, which tries to restore the surface to its original flat satte. As the waves then move through the water, particles push and pull on their neighbors through the wave induced prussere, and this motion propagates eenrgy through the wtear in unsoin with the wave motion. The motion of these particles is much more limited than the overall motion of the waves. Near the shore, the shallower seafloor constrains the motion of the waves to occur in a more limited rigeon than out at sea, concentrating the wave energy near the surface. If the topography of the shoreline is even and smooth, this will recfart the waves to become more parallel to the shroe as they approach.
Open Cloze
And what exactly are you _______ for? The perfect wave, of course. Like other waves in physics, ocean waves represent a transfer of energy. Wind blowing across the _____ accelerates water particles near the surface, _______ to the growth of ripples that become waves. These deviations from the flat surface are acted upon by gravity, which tries to restore the surface to its original flat _____. As the waves then move through the water, particles push and pull on their neighbors through the wave induced ________, and this motion propagates ______ through the _____ in ______ with the wave motion. The motion of these particles is much more limited than the overall motion of the waves. Near the shore, the shallower seafloor constrains the motion of the waves to occur in a more limited ______ than out at sea, concentrating the wave energy near the surface. If the topography of the shoreline is even and smooth, this will _______ the waves to become more parallel to the _____ as they approach.
Solution
- pressure
- unison
- energy
- region
- waiting
- water
- refract
- shore
- state
- ocean
- leading
Original Text
And what exactly are you waiting for? The perfect wave, of course. Like other waves in physics, ocean waves represent a transfer of energy. Wind blowing across the ocean accelerates water particles near the surface, leading to the growth of ripples that become waves. These deviations from the flat surface are acted upon by gravity, which tries to restore the surface to its original flat state. As the waves then move through the water, particles push and pull on their neighbors through the wave induced pressure, and this motion propagates energy through the water in unison with the wave motion. The motion of these particles is much more limited than the overall motion of the waves. Near the shore, the shallower seafloor constrains the motion of the waves to occur in a more limited region than out at sea, concentrating the wave energy near the surface. If the topography of the shoreline is even and smooth, this will refract the waves to become more parallel to the shore as they approach.
Frequently Occurring Word Combinations
ngrams of length 2
collocation |
frequency |
wave energy |
2 |
Important Words
- accelerates
- acted
- approach
- blowing
- concentrating
- constrains
- deviations
- energy
- flat
- gravity
- growth
- induced
- leading
- limited
- motion
- move
- neighbors
- occur
- ocean
- original
- parallel
- particles
- perfect
- physics
- pressure
- propagates
- pull
- push
- refract
- region
- represent
- restore
- ripples
- sea
- seafloor
- shallower
- shore
- shoreline
- smooth
- state
- surface
- topography
- transfer
- unison
- waiting
- water
- wave
- waves
- wind